The leading pack is now half-way around the world. The race now is through the Pacific, around Cape Horn, then back up the Atlantic.
It’s a big ocean to sail on matchstick boats. There are only eighteen left from the thirty that started. I suspect we’ll lose a couple more in the Pacific.
There is more to be experienced in the Vendée Globe than waves, sea and sky. There’s a constant fight with the physical elements, but the heart and mind become the principle combatants in this the most solitary of battles. Confidence ebbs and flows with the waves. The heart gets heavy and despondent, the head overrun with the lengthening job list. Where’s the time for sleep, where’s the time for even racing? How in the hell can this possibly work?
Rarely do we see such a helter-skelter of physical and emotional hardship as we do in a race like the Vendée: Passion. Agony. The deep satisfaction derived from impeccable seamanship. The respect for and breathtaking awe of such terrifying seas. The excitement of surfing such a brittle piece of kit at thirty knots. The shattered heartbreak of a boat broken, busted, and fucked beyond repair.
And those still with us are still only half-way around.
They are well into the southern latitudes now – well into the fifties. “Below forty degrees, there is no law,” it is said. “Below 50 degrees, there is no God.”
Among the first to retire in this latest period of attrition was Unai Bazurko (Pakea Bizkaia) with a broken rudder. The Open 60’s have two rudders to obtain the most effective steering, but as Unai heads home to Spain, he will have but one, forcing him to stay on a single tack for most of the journey.
Loick Peyron (Gitana Eighty) was in third place when he was dismasted on December 10th. Good timing, too: he’d just climbed his mast the previous day to fix a halyard problem. Loick had previously been in the lead longer than any other skipper. He’s also the only skipper to have raced in the first Vendee back in 1989. He has managed to construct a jury rig and is now gamely making his way towards Australia.
At this point the boats are starting to seriously surf at 30+ knots of boat speed, often with only the aft quarter of the boat still in the water. This involves careful placement of ballast (stacking and water tanks) as well as full trust in one’s autopilot. Autopilot repair is a frequent maintenance issue for the solo skippers; most carry several for redundancy. Without an autopilot the skipper would always be tired and wet and never be able to race at the level required.
By the middle of December, Mike Golding (Ecover) was up to fourth, and Mich Desj (Foncia) all the way up to third – after having been seven hundred miles behind due to his early return to Les Sables. What a sailor! Mich is so nonchalant about it as well – doesn’t feel he’s pushing particularly hard, but he must be.
Icebergs are now being spotted by some of the skippers, from boat-size to four hundred metres in length and as high as a mast. Wildlife is causing problems too, as Safran hits a whale but somehow escapes damage.
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Sam Davies on Roxy seems to be really enjoying her race. Huge surfing; sometimes co-operative seas; the right attitude. She of all the skippers seems the most willing (or able) to express the magic and beauty of sailing such a boat in such an ocean.
Her McGyver side has also been busy – she’s been doing what sounds like some extensive rewiring, what with bypassing solenoids in the keel trunk.
Last week Sam hit her elbow so hard that she passed out with the pain. Thankfully she now seems to be ok.
Her quote about icebergs in my last post was eerie and frightening and beautiful…
The two Swiss skippers suffered badly in the Indian ocean. The keel head on Dominique Wavre’s Temenos II broke, leaving the keel swinging out of control under the boat. He diverted to the Kerguelen islands to try and effect a repair.
His compatriot Bernard Stamm (Cheminées Poujoulat) also had issues, discovering his rudder bearings were crushed by the excessive wave forces. Wavre, already anchored in the Kerguelens, tried to guide Bernard into the tricky bay so he could also attempt repairs, but Stamm ended up running aground after getting caught in a patch of weeds. His boat was badly damaged, but they eventually got her re-floated and she is now loaded aboard a supply vessel, bound for Reunion Island.
Meanwhile, Wavre continues on to Australia after making a makeshift repair to the keel head.
On December 16th, Mike Golding managed to gain first place. He was sailing quickly and seemed to be managing the boat very well, but then… CRASH. Tragedy. The mast came down. Again. This is Mike’s third dismasting in four consecutive round-the-world races. Ecover was very powered up at the time, though apparently in the wrong configuration. He was just heading out on deck to deal with an unexpected squall when it all came down. It’s just heartbreaking. I thought Mike had a chance at first place this time around.
That’s three injured boats now headed for Perth.
Vincent Riou (PRB), always up with the leading pack and a favourite for this Vendee, had to slow down for a while due to an injured foot. Last week he hit a glancing blow to an iceberg but somehow avoided injury or damage. The Vendee safety team has enforced a series of ice gates that forces the fleet out of the known danger zones, but this far South, there is still no avoiding the odd growler or iceberg. What an utterly frightening and humbling experience that must be!
Vincent’s foot is now on the mend and he thinks he can catch the rest of the fleet in the Pacific.
Jean-Pierre Dick (Paprec Virbac) – a front runner for most of the race – experienced rudder damage after hitting a UFO (Unidentified Floating Object). He then headed North into quieter seas to effect a complicated repair. Although not fully satisfied with it, Riou is now back on track after having lost 600 miles. I have a feeling he’ll find a way to keep that rudder working and make his way back up to the front.
Jean-Baptiste Dejeanty (Groupe Maisoneuve) finally decided to abandon the race after suffering from a series of equipment problems. These included autopilot failures, a ripped genoa, and a damaged mainsail halyard. He was one of the original boats to return to Les Sables for repairs. He must be gutted.
And of course there’s Yann Elies, who suffered for two days with a broken leg, waiting for rescue. He’s now safe and sound in a hospital in Fremantle.
The comeback kid continues to astound: after a seven hundred mile deficit Mich Desj (Foncia) has been in first place since Golding’s dismasting. He’s still going strong and seemingly not bothered by the pace. This is typical French mastery in action.
So – eighteen left, and more serious weather about to hit the entire fleet. Let’s hope the excitement continues without any more injuries. It’s a tough race, on a tough ocean, but these are tough skippers. God speed to all of them.